Seoul Train
Jordan
Through the ages, Koreans have not had
much of a chance to decide their destiny. Colonized and conquered endlessly by the Japanese and the Chinese, Korea has never had a moment to shine. It was only after their painful split of the peninsula that Korea has taken the main stage, but this time in two entities. Glistening, ultra-modern South Korea exhibits itself to travellers as a care-free, developed nation, with no concern for its neighbor to the north.
RIGHT: Downtown Seoul at night, looking towards rival North Korea's capital of Pyongyang. Pyongyang is about 119 miles away--roughly the distance between New York and Boston.
I visited Seoul, South Korea's capital, after Christmas this last year, expecting to be dropped in the middle of a war zone after the recent tensions between the two Koreas. Flying into Incheon's international airport approximately 20 miles from the capitol, I wasn't sure whether Seoul would greet me with open arms or with police blockades. Stepping off the airport shuttle changed all my expectations. The university neighborhood of Hongik bustled despite the cold, people slipping and sliding across the iced paths. People laughed and joked, stopping here and there for coffee and street food. Every business glowed with pride, piled on top of each other in the packed and complex alleyways. Christmas lights adorned every tree along the main throughfare, which was covered in a light dusting of snow. Behind these squat buildings, Seoul's glistening skyline shone at a distance.
Strangely, this place half a world away felt as safe and carefree as Nicollet Mall in Minneapolis on a winter night.
After the immediate familiarity, I was greeted with a touch of culture-shock. Unlike the Beijing or, to a lesser extent,
much of a chance to decide their destiny. Colonized and conquered endlessly by the Japanese and the Chinese, Korea has never had a moment to shine. It was only after their painful split of the peninsula that Korea has taken the main stage, but this time in two entities. Glistening, ultra-modern South Korea exhibits itself to travellers as a care-free, developed nation, with no concern for its neighbor to the north.
RIGHT: Downtown Seoul at night, looking towards rival North Korea's capital of Pyongyang. Pyongyang is about 119 miles away--roughly the distance between New York and Boston.
I visited Seoul, South Korea's capital, after Christmas this last year, expecting to be dropped in the middle of a war zone after the recent tensions between the two Koreas. Flying into Incheon's international airport approximately 20 miles from the capitol, I wasn't sure whether Seoul would greet me with open arms or with police blockades. Stepping off the airport shuttle changed all my expectations. The university neighborhood of Hongik bustled despite the cold, people slipping and sliding across the iced paths. People laughed and joked, stopping here and there for coffee and street food. Every business glowed with pride, piled on top of each other in the packed and complex alleyways. Christmas lights adorned every tree along the main throughfare, which was covered in a light dusting of snow. Behind these squat buildings, Seoul's glistening skyline shone at a distance.
Strangely, this place half a world away felt as safe and carefree as Nicollet Mall in Minneapolis on a winter night.
After the immediate familiarity, I was greeted with a touch of culture-shock. Unlike the Beijing or, to a lesser extent,
"Even though Korea parades itself internationally ... it is still a culture has held its own
and maintained much of what makes it unique."
Tokyo, Seoul maintains a maze of alleyways that typify an unplanned city. To someone from the United States, the system baffles the mind, but gives every neighborhood its own unique array of shops and residences. Addresses in these areas are for show more than anything. In Korea, they are rarely displayed on buildings, and follow no real standardized system. Amplify the frustration of chaotic roadways with not wanting to lose face, and you have a clear picture of my first cab driver in Asia. I handed him an (admittedly) ambigous map, covered in English and with few landmarks, and told him to deliver my group promptly. Careening through tightly packed alleyways, he tried valiantly to find the hostel, asking people on the street and entering the address into his GPS. After thirty minutes turning, speeding, and brake slamming, our driver jumped out at an intersection and ran into a Seven Eleven. With new instructions, he sped out and brought us to the front door of our hostel. With some unaccepted apologies, we left the cab and allowed our driver to go, hoping that he had not lost too much face.
This type of experience typifies Seoul. At first glance, Seoul appears like a comfortable city, with many people speaking English, modern amenities, and an extremely low crime rate. Looking beyond the official report, however, the true Korea emerges. The complex streets harbor thousands of boutique shops, some no bigger than a closet, while the main roads give way to massive department stores (look up Lotte). The people seem to be free willed, wearing k-pop inspired hairstyles and western fashion, and yet most still maintain a public face, which they try to preserve at any cost. Any type of foreign cuisine can be found, but Korea has a longer culinary tradition than the French. Even though Korea parades itself internationally, hosting the G20 and being ABOVE: Gyeongbokgung's entrance, with Sunbong peak in the
named the World Design Capital for 2010, it is still a background.
culture that has held its own and maintained much of what makes it unique.
So, when you go to Seoul, try to get a Korean experience. Go to Seoul's many palaces (and particularly Gyeongbokgung), which are gorgeous year round. Spend some time shopping in Dongdaemun's night market, for a good deal can always be had. Eat some true Korean food in Insadong and pass by the fake Korean souvenirs. Never be afraid to explore around a neighborhood, every one holds secret spots and great sights. All I really ask of you is to step out of your comfort zone; you will find the sweetest fruit there.